With a planer you can smooth out rough wood, clean sawn edges and give new life to old wood. Each piece of planed wood can be used alone or glued to other planed pieces to obtain a thicker board or block. In general, all planes are used to flatten, reduce the thickness of, and impart a smooth surface to a rough piece of wood or wood. Brushing is also used to produce horizontal, vertical or inclined flat surfaces on workpieces usually too large to shape, where the integrity of the assembly requires the same smooth surface.
Special types of planes are designed for cutting joints or decorative moldings. Use chalk to place the parts you expect to remove from the board. Work around knots, cracks and edges with deep tree bark. If there are several parts that come from the same board, draw a sketch on paper to remind you of the design.
Then cut the board to the lengths corresponding to the parts. Cut each part at least 5 cm. Do it even if knots, cracks or cracks are part of the residue at the ends. This will allow you to remove any marks on the ends of the boards or any excess cutouts (gouges) from the planer.
Don't work with long boards unless they're needed; it's much easier to flatten short boards. The direction in which you plan is important if you want to avoid tearing. You want to plan with the vein, but on a rough board, how can you know what that is? One method is to look at the edge of the board to see which direction the vein is in. You want to plan in the direction in which the grain goes up.
The usual analogy is to treat the board as you would with the fur of a cat plane so that the grain settles. Another method is to look at the final grain and identify the heart side of the board. It is the side to which the rings bend. The outer side of the rings is the side of the cortex.
With the heart side up, orient the board so that the bottom or open part of the grain cathedral is facing you. Then, plane from the bottom of the cathedral to the top. When you return the board to the side of the bark, invert the board so that you are planning the tops of the cathedral. This will ensure that you are always planning in the right direction.
Plane in the direction of the elevation of the wood grain. A climb is where the grain continues along the edge of the work material. Brushing in this direction ensures that the wood does not splinter. If you had to glide in the opposite direction, you run the risk of chipping or tearing the edge of the board.